Thursday 1 March 2018

Has Rome, the Eternal City, Gone To The Dogs?

St Peters Basilica viewed from across the Tiber River.
 

I first visited Rome many years ago as a teenager on a family holiday.  I returned this year the primary reason was to watch the Italy vs England Six Nations rugby match.  What struck me was the number of tourists visiting the city in early February, even accounting for the thousands of English rugby fans.  They do say that “All roads lead to Rome” so perhaps I should not have been surprised after all this is the age of mass tourism, 13.5 million tourists visited Rome in 2014 and this number will have increased; Rome is the 11th most visited city in the world.  We found lengthy queues to visit any of the major attractions, the Colosseum (4 million tourist visitors a year) and the Vatican (over 4.2 million tourists a year).  The tourists visiting did not seem to mind the deteriorating state of some areas of the city and the poor pavements, perhaps because for the first time visitor Rome is Rome, with its the history, culture, museums and monuments the city continues to attract visitors in ever greater numbers. My thoughts on visiting a second time…

The Colosseum
The Colosseum photographed from The Forum.

The largest amphitheatre built by the Roman Empire, listed as one of the New Seven Wonders of the World and dating back to 80AD, it held 50,000 people. It is hard not to admire its magnificence and forget it was a place where human beings were cruelly killed for the pleasure and entertainment of Caesar and the populace of the time.  The Colosseum had four levels, Senators were seated on the first level for the best view of the action with women and slaves standing on level four furthest away from the action!

Roman Forum
The Forum photographed from on high.

The Roman Forum what remains of it, temples, triumphal arches, and buildings the place that was the heart of the Ancient Rome, is located just across from the Colosseum.  The best views and photo opportunities are from the high vantage points nearby looking down on the Forum.

The Pantheon
Light from the oculus pouring into The Pantheon

Mentioned at the beginning of Dan Brown’s novel Angel and Demons I think The Pantheon is a marvel, built as a temple to all the roman pagan gods.  The 43 high metre concrete dome is thicker at the bottom that at the top.  The concrete at the top of the dome is mixed with lighter volcanic rock to reduce the weight of the dome. The oculus (circular opening) at the top of the dome is 8 metres across and designed to further reduce the domes weight, the oculus admits light which adds to the beauty and magnificence of the building.

Trevi Fountain
Neptune stands supreme.

An ostentatious but beautiful fountain dating back to 1762. The fountain build onto the side of a building pushes water to all of the other fountains in the city. The fountain has at its centre a carving of Neptune the God of the Sea.  According to the legend if you turn away from the fountain then throw a coin over your shoulder into the fountain, you will return to Rome in the future. Should you want to of course!

Vatican City
The Dome of St Peters Basilica dominated the Rome skyline.

The Vatican City, home of the Roman Catholic Church, is an independent State within the City of Rome.  I would say even for none Catholics St. Peters Basilica if well worth taking the time out to see.  Entry to the Basilica is free although you have to join the same queue as the one for The Vatican Gardens, Museums and Sistine Chapel. I would advise visiting early morning to avoid a lengthy wait to enter later in the day.  The ceiling of the Sistine Chapel, painted by Michelangelo is awe inspiring, you do not to be an art historian or Renaissance art lover to appreciate it brilliance.
Beetroot pasta.  First time for everything.
The Spanish Steps area and Villa Borghese gardens offer some respite from the crowded city streets offering tranquillity and excellent photo opportunities of the Rome skyline.
If time allows cross the Tiber River over to Trastevere and walk around this fashionable area, which is full of Italian ambience and cheaper places to eat.
Perhaps I should not have thrown a coin into the Trevi Fountain all those years ago then maybe I would not have returned to Rome and tarnished my childhood memories; although I was probably looking back through rose tinted glasses.  You will have guessed I was disappointed on my return Rome. I found the city expensive even allowing for the devalued pound against the euro.  Prices in restaurants were high as was the admission fee to major attractions.  Eating out ordering a first course followed by a “secondi” with house wine we found we were paying euro 80 for two.  Eating only a pizza or pasta course was a more reasonable price.  I observed many other tourists doing likewise, perhaps ordering 2 pizza between 4 people or sharing a couple of pasta dishes.  The traffic congestion was as bad as I remembered it but then again most major cities in Europe have the similar problems.  Alas the scammers, for which Rome is notorious, were out in force.  Beware be very aware. The tour touts and beggars who all assume tourist pockets are deep and never ending were only too prevalent.   
Has Rome gone to the dogs.  If you have visited recently what do you think?