Has Rome, the Eternal City, Gone To The Dogs?

St Peters Basilica viewed from across the Tiber River.
 

I first visited Rome many years ago as a teenager on a family holiday.  I returned this year the primary reason was to watch the Italy vs England Six Nations rugby match.  What struck me was the number of tourists visiting the city in early February, even accounting for the thousands of English rugby fans.  They do say that “All roads lead to Rome” so perhaps I should not have been surprised after all this is the age of mass tourism, 13.5 million tourists visited Rome in 2014 and this number will have increased; Rome is the 11^th most visited city in the world.  We found lengthy queues to visit any of the major attractions, the Colosseum (4 million tourist visitors a year) and the Vatican (over 4.2 million tourists a year).  The tourists visiting did not seem to mind the deteriorating state of some areas of the city and the poor pavements, perhaps because for the first time visitor Rome is Rome, with its the history, culture, museums and monuments the city continues to attract visitors in ever greater numbers. My thoughts on visiting a second time…

The Colosseum

The Colosseum photographed from The Forum.

The largest amphitheatre built by the Roman Empire, listed as one of the New Seven Wonders of the World and dating back to 80AD, it held 50,000 people. It is hard not to admire its magnificence and forget it was a place where human beings were cruelly killed for the pleasure and entertainment of Caesar and the populace of the time.  The Colosseum had four levels, Senators were seated on the first level for the best view of the action with women and slaves standing on level four furthest away from the action!

Roman Forum

The Forum photographed from on high.

The Roman Forum what remains of it, temples, triumphal arches, and buildings the place that was the heart of the Ancient Rome, is located just across from the Colosseum.  The best views and photo opportunities are from the high vantage points nearby looking down on the Forum.

The Pantheon

Light from the oculus pouring into The Pantheon

Mentioned at the beginning of Dan Brown’s novel Angel and Demons I think The Pantheon is a marvel, built as a temple to all the roman pagan gods.  The 43 high metre concrete dome is thicker at the bottom that at the top.  The concrete at the top of the dome is mixed with lighter volcanic rock to reduce the weight of the dome. The oculus (circular opening) at the top of the dome is 8 metres across and designed to further reduce the domes weight, the oculus admits light which adds to the beauty and magnificence of the building.

Trevi Fountain

Neptune stands supreme.

An ostentatious but beautiful fountain dating back to 1762. The fountain build onto the side of a building pushes water to all of the other fountains in the city. The fountain has at its centre a carving of Neptune the God of the Sea.  According to the legend if you turn away from the fountain then throw a coin over your shoulder into the fountain, you will return to Rome in the future. Should you want to of course!

Vatican City

The Dome of St Peters Basilica dominated the Rome skyline.

The Vatican City, home of the Roman Catholic Church, is an independent State within the City of Rome.  I would say even for none Catholics St. Peters Basilica if well worth taking the time out to see.  Entry to the Basilica is free although you have to join the same queue as the one for The Vatican Gardens, Museums and Sistine Chapel. I would advise visiting early morning to avoid a lengthy wait to enter later in the day.  The ceiling of the Sistine Chapel, painted by Michelangelo is awe inspiring, you do not to be an art historian or Renaissance art lover to appreciate it brilliance.

Beetroot pasta.  First time for everything.

The Spanish Steps area and Villa Borghese gardens offer some respite from the crowded city streets offering tranquillity and excellent photo opportunities of the Rome skyline.

If time allows cross the Tiber River over to Trastevere and walk around this fashionable area, which is full of Italian ambience and cheaper places to eat.

Perhaps I should not have thrown a coin into the Trevi Fountain all those years ago then maybe I would not have returned to Rome and tarnished my childhood memories; although I was probably looking back through rose tinted glasses.  You will have guessed I was disappointed on my return Rome. I found the city expensive even allowing for the devalued pound against the euro.  Prices in restaurants were high as was the admission fee to major attractions.  Eating out ordering a first course followed by a “secondi” with house wine we found we were paying euro 80 for two.  Eating only a pizza or pasta course was a more reasonable price.  I observed many other tourists doing likewise, perhaps ordering 2 pizza between 4 people or sharing a couple of pasta dishes.  The traffic congestion was as bad as I remembered it but then again most major cities in Europe have the similar problems.  Alas the scammers, for which Rome is notorious, were out in force.  Beware be very aware. The tour touts and beggars who all assume tourist pockets are deep and never ending were only too prevalent.   

Has Rome gone to the dogs.  If you have visited recently what do you think? 

Gorilla tracking in Uganda

View of Bwindi sitting from my balcony at Silverback Lodge.

I was going to experience a great adventure – but what to expect?  The gorillas’ home in Uganda is the Bwindi Impenetrable Rainforest National Park, a 124 square mile UNESCO site which is the habitat of around 350 mountain gorillas, 50% of the worlds remaining population. We stayed at the Silverback Lodge in the Buhoma sector of Bwindi. The accommodation is in an excellent situation with wonderful views of the valley and surrounding forests.  

The sign signalling we had arrived at the Ranger Station.

Woken up very early at 5.00 am, before daylight, breakfast was at 5.30 am! Could I eat breakfast at this hour?  I remember thinking I hope this gorilla tracking is worth it and we get to see them.  Our guide, Robert, had told us we had a 90% chance of seeing the gorillas.  At 6.00 am we started out on the 11/2 hour drive to the ranger station from our accommodation.   On arrival our permits were checked and we were assigned to a gorilla tracking group according to the degree of difficulty chosen, easy (up to a two hour track), medium (between 2 and 4 hours), or difficult (4 hours plus).  We opted for easy.  The largest group size was 8.   We were then taken by a ranger for our briefing, the instructions were detailed and built the anticipation nicely.  Illnesses are a legitimate concern for the rangers as they can be transmitted from humans to the gorillas so anyone showing the symptoms of a cold had the chance to own up and forgo the experience getting a refund of their permit fee.  Show signs of symptoms later we were told and you will be escorted out of the park with no refund.  

"What is that black blog over there?"

A further short drive from the Ranger Centre, a matter of minutes, we were dropped off by the roadside at the park boundary where we were met by the waiting porters who will for $20 a day carry your bag and generally assist with negotiating the steep mountain terrain.  I figured as a bag could become very heavy at the end of a long day negotiating the steep ascents and descents of the mountain terrain I would hire a porter.  I shared the cost with another member of the group. We were told that paying for a porter is a way of supporting the community putting money back into the local economy encouraging the locals to support gorilla conservation and protection.

It was explained that some of the porters were ex-poachers or were from the families of former poachers and the money they earned from ‘portering’ provided a living for their families which stopped them poaching the gorillas.  My porter was a charming young woman called Evelain who easily negotiated the terrain while laden with two bags and could even offer to help me with my footing.  In single file, tourists, porters, rangers and guards set off downhill through the thicket.  We had been on our way for no more than a minute when a group member, Sue, who was walking at the front of our group could be heard excitingly asking one of the rangers “what is that black blob up in the trees, just over there?”  
 

There were gorillas seemingly everywhere.

Hiding in the bushes?

We continued walking for no more than 3 minutes down a very steep, and I mean very steep slope, and walked straight into a family of gorillas.  How amazing and so soon into our trek.  No-one in the group could believe our luck as we had been told to expect to walk for 1 to 11/2 hours through the difficult terrain before expecting to see the gorillas, if we saw them at all.  The group we had stumbled upon included 2 adult silverbacks, a young silverback, at least three female gorillas (I lost count), two babies, one only two years old a ranger informed me and 3 other young gorillas.  

Just what is that?!

Wonderful!  Fascinating and humbling, what a privilege, a truly unforgettable experience.  I had never imagined stumbling on the gorillas so quickly or being able to spend an hour in the company of so many of these gentle giants.  The undergrowth in the rainforest is dense and there are many thick creepers, but the rangers clear the way for you and helpfully move branches aside so you get a better view of the gorillas. 

We observed the gorillas for one hour and during that time, and in no particular order, my

Face to face with the young silverback.

experiences were:  One of the adult silverbacks walked in front of me no more than 2 feet away.  Two females passed me by one with a baby on her back, closely followed by a young one. Walking straight into the path of the young silverback who was lagging behind the others, he was walking up the mountain as I was heading down at the end of our hour; I was in awe, one of the rangers encouraged me to take the photo opposite. Watching the silverback lying in contemplation, his baby playing on his back and doing somersaults using the branch of a tree near at hand. Two young gorillas grooming the other adult silverback.  Two females and other young gorillas resting in the hollow of a tree whilst a couple of other gorillas played in the trees.

Children will be children!

  The making of memories just went on and on.  Two or three of the gorillas were still gorging themselves.  I found myself so close to one female who was standing at the base of a tree trunk reaching up into the tree pulling down nuts or was it a seed of some sort (?) to eat, that I could clearly hear her crunching as she ate.  And, comically there was so much farting and burping, especially from the silverbacks – must have been all that fibre!

If there is one moment that particularly stands out for me it was loosing my footing in the deep foliage on a steep incline and falling onto my bottom not 10 feet from where one of the silverbacks was feeding.  Rather nervously I looked up to find my fall had not gone unnoticed for the silverback had momentarily stopped eating and was looking directly at the distraction, me!  I even found time to photograph the moment.  

So, my fall did not go unnoticed!

Guidance given for safe distance to stand.

All too soon the hour was up and we left the gorillas as they moved off deeper into the forest.  But what an experience to treasure.  My tip - if you go do be sure not to take photos all of the time, take the time to truly appreciate the experience, watch and take it all in.  I laugh to myself now when I think of the ranger instruction given at our briefing that we were to stay eight feet away from the gorillas, you just can’t explain that to an animal in the wild can you, as I discovered?!  

Silverback deep in contemplation.

Ideas of what to do on a city break in Budapest.

The River Danube, The Chain Bridge and Hungarian Parliament building.

For for our short break in Budapest we chose to stay in Buda just a few minutes up Gellert Hill and a short stroll from the famous Gellert Spa.  Our accommodation was a 10 minute walk across Liberty Bridge crossing the Danube into Pest.  The Great Market Hall and numerous cafes and restaurants are found just over the bridge on the Pest side. A 15 minute walk along the Buda side of the Danube River brought us to the Chain Bridge and the short Funicular ride up to the Castle.  An ideal city to explore on foot Budapest is compact enough to walk to most of the main tourist spots if you are reasonably fit and mobile, Pest is flat whilst Buda is hilly. If mobility is a problem or you don’t want to walk there is an excellent tram and bus service connecting the various places to see and visit the city.

The districts of Buda, Pest and Obuda were unified to form Budapest in 1873.  Around 20% of the population of Hungary live in its capital city.  The city has endured a very troubled history. First following the defeat of the Austro – Hungarian Empire and the partitioning of Europe at the end of World War 1 (WW1).  Second as a result of the Nazi occupation towards the end of World War 2 (WW2).  And, third by communism and subjugation by the Soviet Union until 1991.  Much of Budapest was flattened by bombing during WW2 and neglected and left to run to ruin under communism. 

The destruction of Budapest during WW2.

Since Hungary gained its independence and the fall of communism Budapest has undergone massive restoration, as can be evidenced when visiting, this restoration work is still ongoing.  The city has been rejuvenated and is an interesting and lively place to spend some time with an abundance of restaurants, cafes and bars.  Architecturally many of its buildings are beautiful and splendid examples of Gothic, Renaissance and Art Nouveau which is typified by the cities many surviving coffee houses, the most well of which is the New York which we ran out of time to see on this trip although we did make it to the Gresham. 

Inside one of the art nouveau cafes.

The city must have been beautiful and something to see in the heyday of the Austro – Hungarian empire.  However, as a tourist you are always reminded of the cities turbulent and troubled history.  

Red Devil restaurant in the caves under Buda.

On the Buda side of the Danube stands the Castle and under the hills are a labyrinth of hydro thermal caves formed by the water springs that supply the cities many thermal spa baths. We visited the cave system under Castle Hill which it is said was where Dracula was taken when captured and held a prisoner for 10 years. The caves have been used as wine vaults, torture chambers and prisons.  They were used by the Nazis during WW2 and as a hideaway during the Hungarian Revolution of 1956. Take the Funicular from near the Chain Bridge up to the Castle and walk to Fisherman’s Bastion for a wonderfully panoramic views of the city particularly across the Danube to Pest, views of the Houses of Parliament and St Stephens Cathedral are stunning. Walking around the Castle Quarter with its cobbled streets and well preserved picture postcard architecture put me in mind of a movie toy town.  The area is very quiet and tranquil compared to its neighbour Pest. 

The Jewish Quarter is the up and coming area and is full of restaurants, bars and shops and is well worth a walk around.  The Dohany Synagogue is the biggest synagogue in Europe and the second biggest in the world.  The Synagogue has been completely and impressively refurbished possible due to a donation from the now deceased Hollywood actor Tony Curtis whose father was a Jewish immigrant from Hungary.  Around 600,000 Hungarian Jews and Roma died in the holocaust.  In the courtyard of the Synagogue is the Holocaust Memorial, a silver tree of life, beneath it thousands of victims are buried.  We had a drink in Gozsdu Court built in the nineteenth century and which is now full of shops, restaurants and bars. It was sobering to realise that in WW2 the Nazis forcibly kept the two entrances to the court closed so that the majority of the inhabitants died of starvation.

One of the many buildings yet to be restored.

The House of Terror on Andrassy ut is so called because it was the headquarters first of the Gestapo during WW2 and then the Hungarian security services during the communist era.  Many people were tortured or executed in the basement cells.  A harrowing place to visit and judging by the reactions of many of the Hungarians visiting at the same time as us the memory is still very much alive for them.  A place which symbolises brutal oppression.

Hints and Tips

Interior of St.Stephens Cathedral.

• Do go inside St. Stephen’s Cathedral (the largest church in Budapest), it is from outside the neoclassical basilica is stunning but inside is absolutely stunning and would be my highlight of the trip.

  

  View from Buda of the Chain Bridge and Cathedral.

 

•  
•  
•  
•  
• Visit the Great Market Hall which is still very much a locals’ food market and sells every possible Hungarian foodstuff, stalls selling paprika abound.  Although the first floor houses many souvenir stalls catering which cater for tourists don’t let that put you off.  On the first floor left hand corner are the food stalls selling local delicacies, the ideal spot for an authentic lunch, albeit at tourist prices. We ate at the langos stall experiencing a stuffed potato-yeast flatbread, the Hungarian pizza!

  

  Paprika for sale at a market stall.

Hungarian Pizza - the langos.

• Budapest is not a cheap city to visit, in most of the city expect to pay tourist prices when eating and drinking.  For a cheap value lunch buy something freshly baked from the bakery on the ground floor of the Great Market Hall.  I can recommend the plum pie. 

• If you plan to take a boat cruise along the Danube do so at night, very picturesque.  All of the major river landmarks along the river are lit up at night and the river has a different ambience.

  

  Hungarian Parliament although not taken at night still outstanding.

• To chill visit one of the cities thermal spring baths, not cheap but a one off.  Expect to pay around £25 (28 Euros / 31 USD) entrance plus payment and returnable deposit for flip-flops, bath cap, robe and towel if you don’t have your own.

The Gellert Spa Baths

• Do take advantage of the free Budapest walking tour which covers all of the main attractions and leaves twice a day, 10.30 am and 2.30 pm from Dek Ferenc ter, in front of St. Stephen’s Basilica.  You pay what you thing the tour was worth.

  

  St Stephen' Cathedral

• Do not be surprised or offended if your waiter stands beside you and waits for you to pay the bill informing him/her what you will pay.  This is the custom in Hungary when you tell the waiter what you will pay (including the tip), or how much change you expect to get.

• Wine served by the glass are smaller measures compared to the UK and elsewhere in Western Europe, do not be surprised.  The prices are not smaller however!

There is so much to do in Budapest dependent on your interests, length of your visit, weather and so on, it is a great choice for a city break.  

Have I missed anything that you would include for the first time visitor to Budapest? 

Book Cover

...Awe inspiring scenery, memorable experiences and personal challenges.

Scaling the Dragon's Back was written to raise awareness and continue fundraising for Dementia UK, Admiral Nurses.  Available as a ebook from Amazon.